Remembering the Great War

Today is Remembrance Day. On this day 96 years ago, an armistice between the Allies and Germany was signed, bringing the Great War to an end – a war which claimed the lives of over 37 million people.

Remembrance Day was always marked through my childhood and early adult years, but I feel far more connected to what the day actually represents this year than I ever have before. I think the same is true for most people – particularly in the UK, where the occasion has been marked by some extraordinary acts of remembrance.

For me, this feeling comes almost by accident. By chance, I ended up visiting a number of places this year that have a huge significance in the remembrance of World War I, each of which made a lasting impression on me.

The Somme

On my road trip back in June, I wanted to visit a military cemetery and so we drove to Etaples Military Cemetery. Strategically important, the area was used as a base for British troops in both World Wars. The cemetery holds over 11,500 deceased.

Etaples Military Cemetery

Walking through the unending graves, there was utter silence. Every so often we stumbled upon letters, notes or poems that had been left by family and loved ones. It was pretty moving.

We stayed overnight on a campsite in Amiens and so the next day found ourselves driving through the former battlefields of the Somme on the way to Belgium. This was completely unplanned.

Graves at a British Military Cemetery in the Somme

During our drive, we saw countless reminders of what had happened there: signposted former front lines – borderlines pushing forward and back over the years, showing how little progress was often made; endless cemeteries – many holding hundreds of unnamed soldiers; monuments to soldiers from different commonwealth nations; and finally – the British flag flying above small French towns in memory of those who helped them.

Unknown soldiers

Driving along, the horizon was dotted with military cemeteries as far as you could see. Here, we entered one. As we left, a British family entered. An older man with them played a military tribute on his phone as he walked among the graves.

Sarajevo

The spot where Franz Ferdinand was killed

The Bosnian capital is where it all began. The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand on 28 June 1914 in the streets of Sarajevo put into motion the events that started World War I. Several Serb students were sent from Belgrade to assassinate the Archduke, but it was Gavrilo Princip who – by chance – found himself stood next to the cart of Franz Ferdinand and his wife and killed them both.

Sarajevo is now more widely known for the Siege in the mid 90s, but standing on the spot where history was made was still a strange experience.

(Our walking tour guide from Insider Sarajevo also did a brilliant job of bringing the story to life)

The Tower of London

The poppies at the Tower of London

Just last week I was in London for work with a few hours to spare and managed to fit in a visit to the Tower of London to see the poppies.

It was cold, pissing it down and grey. But there was still a huge mass of people who had come to see the installation and pay their respects. Even in the miserable weather, the impact was startling.

It is a beautiful sight, but just so sad.

Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red

The installation, known as ‘Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red’ comprises of 888,246 ceramic poppies – one for each fallen soldier from the UK and the Commonwealth. I’ve mentioned before, but the memorial makes me so proud – not just that these people served their country – but that the UK commissioned a memorial that is completely at the forefront of people’s minds around the world and has got so many people taking about the war.

It might only be temporary, but the effect is far greater than that of a simple statue.

On The Luce has some fantastic photos of her sunny day at the Tower here.

British Military Cemetery in the Somme

Ultimately, this year I have realised just how grateful I am for the actions of the people we remember today. Today, I am living in a country I love in a (largely) peaceful Europe – a life that would have been utterly impossible a hundred years ago. The actions of these people and many more like them since have brought peace to Europe and for that I thank them.

Lest we forget.